A visitor’s guide to Teotihuacan, Mexico

An air of mystery surrounds it to this day, with experts still trying to explain why this vast site was abandoned. But there’s no better place to learn more about the lost civilisation than on a tour of Mexico, marvelling at the 66m-tall Pyramid of the Sun before walking the Avenue of the Dead to the Pyramid of the Moon past centuries-old temples.

So if you’re planning a visit to Teotihuacan, here’s everything you need to know before you go, from practical tips to details of the highlights you’ll see during your trip, with our visitor’s guide to Teotihuacan.

Who built Teotihuacan?

Teotihuacan is thought to have been founded around 100 BCE, reaching its peak between the 1st and 7th centuries when the city was burned and abandoned.

The largest city in ancient Mesoamerica, there are still questions about who founded and built Teotihuacan. Many believe that it was a multi-ethnic state, home to the Totonac, Nahua or Otomi ethnic groups, but we don’t even how the inhabitants of Teotihuacan referred to themselves. The city’s name, which translates as “the place where the gods were created”, was given to it by the Aztecs around a thousand years after it was founded.

What is certain is that it was one of the world’s largest settlements, home to as many as 150,000 people, which went on to have a major influence on the culture and religions of the later Aztec and Mayan civilisations. As well as the pyramids and temples, archaeologists have found residential compounds which would have housed multiple families, alongside evidence that animal and human sacrifice was practised.

Whoever the founders and inhabitants of Teotihuacan were, their civilisation endured for centuries, and a visit gives us a chance to glimpse what it must have been like at the height of its power.

How to get to Teotihuacan

Teotihuacan is just 30 miles outside Mexico City and if you don’t have your own transport (and you’re unlikely to want to drive within the capital), there are several ways to reach it. The easiest option is to join an escorted tour, or visit as part of a tour of Mexico. Alternatively, there are buses which run from the Autobuses del Norte bus station – allow plenty of time to get tickets as it’s a major bus station with multiple lines; for Teotihuacan, buses are normally marked ‘Piramides’ and your ticket will be for a specific timed bus on the journey there. You can catch any return bus, although the latest ones will be busy, so it’s worth checking the final departure and arranging to leave beforehand.

It’s also possible to travel to Teotihuacan with Uber. Both journeys take around one hour depending on traffic, Uber is more expensive and you may have to pay an additional fee for the toll road. You’ll also need to have mobile data on your phone in order to arrange your route home.

Pyramid of the Moon, Teotihuacan

Highlights of Teotihuacan

Stretching across eight square miles, a visit to Teotihuacan is a chance to see the astonishing pyramid (sun and moon) at each end of the 1.5-mile-long Avenue of the Dead, as well as temples including the Temple of the Feathered Serpent (also known as the Temple of Quetzalcoatl) and the ruins of plazas and ancient homes. Even more astonishing, the millions of tonnes of stone used to create this vast city would have been moved and shaped by hand.

Pyramid of the Sun

The largest pyramid in the western hemisphere and third largest in the world, the imposing Pyramid of the Sun towers 66m tall, a monumental site which dwarfs even the Pyramid of the Moon – both named later by the Aztecs. Built in around 100CE from red volcanic rock, when Teotihuacan was reaching its zenith, the base measures 220 by 230 metres and it’s believed it was originally covered in eye-catching murals.

On the pyramid’s west side, there are 248 steps leading to the top of the structure, although visitors can no longer climb it, and it’s thought that there was once a temple at the summit – the Aztecs later used it for rituals and sacrifices. But other theories suggest it was a royal tomb, or point to the hidden corridor leading to a chamber which contained a natural spring as a reason for its creation.

Archaeologists have found figurines and masks, as well as a gold statue of a god within the pyramid, along with pieces of obsidian and animal bones.

Pyramid of the Moon

The second-largest of the Teotihuacan pyramids, the Pyramid of the Moon stands at the western edge of the Avenue of the Dead. Although this was built after the Pyramid of the Sun, it was constructed over an even older structure, which existed around the time when Teotihuacan was founded.

Built in stages over around 350 years from 100CE, the Pyramid of the Moon was used for performing ritual sacrifices of animals and humans, whose bodies were then buried before another layer was added to the pyramid. The final design mimics the shape of the Cerro Gordo mountain just to the north of the site. A platform at the top was used for ceremonies honouring the Great Goddess of Teotihuacan, a goddess of water, fertility, earth and creation, while the public plaza at the base was also used for astronomical observations

Avenue of the Dead

Stretching for around 1.5 miles and 130ft wide, the Avenue of the Dead connects the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon and is thought to have been much longer when Teotihuacan was at its most powerful. Oriented slightly east of true north, it points directly at the nearby peak of Cerro Gordo, and was lined with palace residences – not tombs, as the Aztecs believed, which led to them giving the avenue its memorable name.

Along its route, the road passes the Citadel, a large plaza that’s home to the Temple of the Feathered Serpent, as well as smaller pyramids. Look out too for the mural of the Jaguar, near the Pyramid of the Sun on the western side of the Avenue, one of several eye-catching murals which make Teotihuacan so memorable (including those at the Tepantitla Palace).

Temple of the Feathered Serpent

The Temple of the Feathered Serpent is the third largest pyramid at Teotihuacan, built between around 150 and 200CE, named for the depictions of the feathered serpent deity which cover its sides. Identified with the later Aztec god Quetzalcoatl, the site was previously called the Temple of Quetzalcoatl as well as being known as the Temple of the Plumed God.

Set at the southern end of the Avenue of the Dead, in the citadel complex, there’s a large courtyard surrounding the temple, which it’s thought could have held all of the adult population of Teotihuacan.

More than 200 burials have been found beneath the surface, thought to be sacrificial victims, many in military clothing and surrounded by weapons, while it’s believed that the city’s past rulers may once have been buried in front of the temple.

As with much relating to the city, the site is shrouded in mystery with new discoveries still being made. A tunnel under the temple was discovered in 2003, revealing items from Teotihuacan’s peak which had lain hidden for around 1,800 years, including ritual offerings to the gods, from sculptures of pouncing jaguars to crystals shaped into eyes. Archaeologists also discovered a model mountainous landscape using tiny pools of liquid mercury to simulate lakes, plus powdered pyrite (also known as fool’s gold) on the walls to create the effect of stars.

Teotihuacan Museum

Located near the entrance by the Pyramid of the Sun, the Teotihuacan Museum makes a great starting point for a visit to this historic place or a welcome air-conditioned escape during the heat of the day. Including a timeline to show how Teotihuacan expanded, reached the peak of its influence and success before its fall, it’s a good way to understand what we know of the ancient site’s origins.

There is also information about the civilisation’s history, culture and art, along with artefacts excavated from across Teotihuacan, from pottery and tools to sculptures, jewellery and ornaments.

Teotihuacan pyramids

What to know before you go

Climbing the pyramids

Since 2020, you’re no longer allowed to climb the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon, with steep fines for trying to climb the Teotihuacan pyramids. This is designed to protect the country’s ancient sites and isn’t limited to the pyramids at Teotihuacan, with a ban on climbing the pyramids at other locations in Mexico such as Chichen Itza.

Opening times

Teotihuacan is open from 8am to 5pm year-round, including on weekends as well as weekdays. Last entry is at 4.30pm and you are not allowed to stay on the site beyond 5.15pm at the very latest. There are also two museums at the site which are open from 9am to 4.30pm. Arriving early is a good idea if possible, in order to be able to explore before the heat of the day, while weekdays are usually quieter than weekends.

Food on site

There are some small shops near the entrance gate to Teotihuacan where you can buy snacks and drinks but otherwise there is no café or restaurant on the site itself. Do bring cash if you’re planning to buy food (or souvenirs) on site.

Alternatively La Gruta underground restaurant is just a short distance from the Teotihuacan pyramids, serving Mexican and Pre-Hispanic food. Set a short walk outside the archaeological zone inside a volcanic cave, it stays cool throughout the day. There is space for 700 people inside, but it’s still a good idea to make reservations if you’re planning to eat there. Otherwise, there are plenty of places to eat in the town of San Juan Teotihuacan.

What to wear

There’s no dress code at Teotihuacan, so you’re able to wear whatever you want to the archaeological site. It’s best to wear something comfortable and lightweight, with relatively loose-fitting clothes. Sturdy, closed-toe shoes are also a good option as you’ll be doing a lot of walking, often on sandy, gravelled surfaces with loose rocks – if you do choose to wear sandals, be prepared for the dust and opt for practical walking sandals.

It can be very hot, so a hat, sunscreen and sunglasses are essential against the heat (along with water to drink as you explore). If you’re arriving in the early morning or visiting during the cooler months, it’s worth having layers as the temperature can drop quite a bit at the start of the day.

Bear in mind that if you’re combining your visit to Teotihuacan with a stop at the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, which is common on tours, you will need to have knees and shoulders covered for the basilica, so it’s worth bringing a scarf or extra layers.

Teotihuacan

Teotihuacan is a must-visit attraction for all travellers with an interest in lost civilisations and world history, just 30 miles outside Mexico City. To find out more about what you can discover with Titan, take a look at our Mexico’s Mayan Trail tour.